Who needs an alarm clock?

At 7:00 AM every morning the church next to my apartment rings its large bell and two small bells. And again at 7:30. And again at 7:37. Next week, I will hopefully take you on a tour of Viterbo, but it has been mostly rainy this week and not optimal for taking photos. Rain may not be the right word for this weather. Viterbo is very humid; even more so than Maryland, which bothers the kids from Arizona a lot, but the humidity keeps the air a bit warmer than back home. Rain in Viterbo is like walking through a mist tent for a few days straight. The roads are coated with moisture, but jackets remain relatively dry. Umbrellas are optional.

And now, a few not-so obvious differences between Viterbo and Maryland.

1. People are short.

I am 6'2" and I always notice when someone is taller than me. Until yesterday I had not seen a single Italian that I had to look up to. Last night, a bunch of us went to a small bar around the corner from my apartment. As we walked in, a man taller than myself exited the bar, followed by a woman who was even taller than him! She must have been at least 6'4". I mentioned this to my Italian teacher, Morena, and she agreed that Italians are generally short.

2. There are no water fountains. Period.

From grade school through college there has always been a water fountain within five feet of almost every restroom. Not so in Viterbo. The only water fountains here are public outdoor water fountains that people only jokingly recommend I drink from. Someone explained to me that although the tap water in Viterbo is drinkable, it is not preferred. Between the espressos, the red wine, and no water fountains, I have had to adjust to ensuring I stay hydrated. The other night at my friends' apartment I had to lie down after dinner to make sure I didn't faceplant in my dessert.

3. Every single restroom has a bidet.

I don't know if Italians have a wiping problem or not, but this fixture is a complete mystery to me. I have not yet learned how to say in Italian, "What's up with that?"

4. Some people don't like Jews.

I know this isn't a shocker but it is worth mentioning. My first day here I passed a pro-Palestinian pamphlet distributor. I almost engaged the men in conversation, but my friend Francesca, who is the third and final Jew on our program, wisely steered me away. Her apartment has two swastikas spraypainted on it (long before me arrived). The swastikas have "No" spraypainted over them, accompanied by vulgarities towards Nazis. I haven't yet encountered anything directly and I hope that remains the case.

5. I have heard of Spanish siestas, but pausa pranzo is a little outrageous.

Every day from about 1:00 PM to about 3:30 PM everything shuts down. Some pizzerias stay open, but every single store is closed for pranzo (lunch). Everyone, including schoolchildren and their teachers, goes home to eat with their family and take a nap. While this is not the most outrageous surprise, it is a little confounding that despite a two and a half hour break, the town still shuts down by 8:00 PM. Except of course for a few restaurants, pizzerias, and discotechs. Discotechs are any bar, pub or cafe that serves primarily people under 30. More details on fun at the discotechs to come.

After class, I am off to Rome for the weekend. My friends, David Goldstein, Jon Kalish, and Jon Siegel are awaiting my arrival there. On Sunday, my friend Stephano, a Ravens fan from Maryland will join me to watch the NFC and AFC championships at the Scholars' Lounge. Amy, the manager, has assured me they will stay open until the Ravens win...er, when the game ends, which should be around 4:00 AM. Then, we will take the 5:00 AM train back to Viterbo, and hopefully not be complete messes at Renaissance history class at 11:00. Until next week, ciao!

-Friday, January 16, 2009 - 10:58 AM